Thanks for the info. I think you already deleted it when you rebuild the forum. I can't find it anywhere. Please give me the link.
About the diagram, have you seen it ? Is it a complete wiring diagram of MC540A ? If it yes, I will make the temp. down / cooler apps. so it can stand the heat.
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You can change the high amp mosfet but MC540A's circuit cannot stand for heat and it will burn. Other solution - jump to other PCB, Samdol has tried it before and the diagram is somewhere in this forum.
NO, still MC540 can't withstand if you torture them with SuperStock 23T, mine also melts slightly on Tamiya Superstoc Type-T although i drive gently, never try use with GP3300, sure will die.. can use only sanyo 2000, I use GP3300 on other chassis with GT7 esc. MC540 actually use IRF3205 rating 110A each FET, 6 pcs total on it, but actually from my inspection on its pcb pattern look like only 2 drive FET only used (2x110A=220A) others for reverse and brake...
Thanks for the info. Maybe we can overcome this problem if I can see the modification diagram for this ESC.
Anyone has, please post it.
For caps., try to find the 10V (not 16) so you don't dump your battery fast. Remember not to use more than 8 cells (9.6v) for 10V caps.
YES. Evogo thanks, capasitor helps hiccup only correct, like plenum chamber behind air filter on my mitsubishi car, I use 2200uF/16V enough n smoother..
NO, still MC540 can't withstand if you torture them with SuperStock 23T, mine also melts slightly on Tamiya Superstoc Type-T although i drive gently, never try use with GP3300, sure will die.. can use only sanyo 2000, I use GP3300 on other chassis with GT7 esc. MC540 actually use IRF3205 rating 110A each FET, 6 pcs total on it, but actually from my inspection on its pcb pattern look like only 2 drive FET only used (2x110A=220A) others for reverse and brake...
For Evogo : Be specific about the caps you use. I've tried same capacity & volts as you said but it melted the plastic above the FETs. Try with Yokomo T-max RSR 23T and it dies. Tell me what's your cap being used for this ESC (Auldey orange) : name and product code. ex. Nichicon, KC series.
Rgds,
btw. seen any Auldey ESC no-limit diagram. Send me if you have.
evogo, I use this MC540A with 23T Motor, how to install those capasitor, parallel at the Batt side or Motor side?also sometimes its get hiccup (even with full batt), green led turn into red led for short period when accelerating, its shock up the motor, is it sign of damaged esc?
For Evogo : Be specific about the caps you use. I've tried same capacity & volts as you said but it melted the plastic above the FETs. Try with Yokomo T-max RSR 23T and it dies. Tell me what's your cap being used for this ESC (Auldey orange) : name and product code. ex. Nichicon, KC series.
Rgds,
btw. seen any Auldey ESC no-limit diagram. Send me if you have.
evogo, I use this MC540A with 23T Motor, how to install those capasitor, parallel at the Batt side or Motor side?also sometimes its get hiccup (even with full batt), green led turn into red led for short period when accelerating, its shock up the motor, is it sign of damaged esc?
Auldey ESC (orange color) is meant for 540 size 27T motor, but some ppl have tried with 23 T motor. You need to put 16V 4700 uF caps at the ESC to run 23T motor.
The original black color Auldey ESC is meant for 380 motor.
For radio, when u purchase Auldey, the receiver in the Auldey's box is the same receiver found in Futaba MJ box.
Auldey ESC (orange color) is meant for 540 size 27T motor, but some ppl have tried with 23 T motor. You need to put 16V 4700 uF caps at the ESC to run 23T motor.
The original black color Auldey ESC is meant for 380 motor.
For radio, when u purchase Auldey, the receiver in the Auldey's box is the same receiver found in Futaba MJ box.